Jul 212013
 

Verucchio — even the name evokes thoughts of medieval villages. Before I visited, I pictured great old walls, buildings marked by the centuries, cobblestone streets and a charming piazza. Arriving there during our trip in June, I happily found all of those things to be true plus a lot more — a thriving community of friendly people with successful businesses and pride in their heritage. It’s a small city with a big heart, infectious community spirit, and abounding history. Although Verucchio is not as well-known as its neighbor, the Republic of San Marino (the oldest republic in the world) which is visible from many vantage points in the town, it has much of its own to offer.

"Rooftops of Verucchio with San Marino is the distance"

Rooftops of Verucchio with San Marino in the distance on the left

Part of Verucchio’s charm is that it isn’t touristy; however, there are very impressive sites to be seen there, not surprising since Verucchio’s history goes as far back as the 12th century BC when it was a settlement of the Etruscans. In future posts we’ll be covering some of the historic sites of Verucchio and the surrounding area (such as the Municipal Archaeological Museum, Malatesta Fortress and other noteworthy places) telling of the many activities and events that characterized our trip, seeing a different side of Emilia-Romagna — meeting locals and experiencing cultural and historical sites. But for now, hopefully this post will provide our introduction to Verucchio and the place that felt like our home away from home for several days.

The town center and imposing Malatesta Fortress are perched on a rocky hilltop above the Marecchio Valley, the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Apennines to the west. Its geographic location was strategic for defense and trade, making it a critically important fortress for the Malatesta family who ruled the area for centuries. Mastin Vecchio, head of the original ruling family, was born in Verucchio (although there is some debate) and the family’s reign of power began here, which is why it is known as the “cradle of the Malatesta”.

"View of the valley from Malatesta Fortress in Verucchio, Italy"

View from Malatesta Fortress in Verucchio

If you look almost directly in the center of the photo above, you’ll see a yellow building with a reddish-brown roof. We stayed in one of the buildings to the right of it. The reverse photo below was taken from our room at Le Case Antiche, looking up to Malatesta Fortress past that yellow building in the valley.

The view from home

"View from a room at Le Case Antiche, an Albergo Diffuso in Verucchio, Italy"

View from our room at Le Case Antiche, Verucchio

Of course, it wasn’t our own home, but during our stay in Verucchio on our blog tour of Emilia-Romagna it felt just as comfortable. Each morning and evening, before and after our visits throughout the region, we enjoyed this wonderful view.

Our blogger group (consisting of Alessandra Catania, Teresa Keane, Mr. TWS and me) had come to Verucchio from our stay at Al Vecchio Convento in Portico di Romagna where we had felt part of the Cameli family and the village itself. As our host there, Marisa Cameli, said — we would find friendly people throughout the Emilia-Romagna region. And she was right!

"Silvia Santolini and Alessandra Catania in Verucchio"

Silvia Santolini and Alessandra Catania in Verucchio

Our hostess and owner of  Le Case Antiche was Silvia Santolini, who was warm and welcoming, a delight to get to know. Le Case Antiche is made up of three properties owned by Silvia  — Il Casale dell’Arte, the renovated farm house located in the valley where we stayed, and two apartments in the city center.  Le Case Antiche is an albergo diffuso. Alberghi diffusi (plural form) are accommodations distributed in different buildings, all located in the same village with one owner, essentially creating the literal translation of the term: “scattered lodgings”. The alberghi diffusi concept also emphasizes opportunities for visitors to become immersed in the local culture,  enjoy regional food and wine, learn traditional crafts and other activities of significant importance to the area.

"Front patio at Le Case Antiche, Il Casale della'Arte in Verucchio, Italy"

On the patio at Le Case Antiche (Il Casale della’Arte)

Inside the two-story building are upscale decor and amenities, comfortable furnishings and lovely touches such as the art throughout by several local artists that provide an elegant flair. Mr. TWS and I stayed in the “Blue Room”, a suite with a terrace that has the view of the fortress and homes on the hillside as in the photo above. The suite also includes another large bedroom and a loft bedroom with a bathroom. There are three other large bedrooms in the house.

"Deck to our suite at Le Case Antiche, Il Casale dell'Arte ""Bedroom at Il Casale della'Arte
"Main living area of Il Casale dell'Arte at the Albergo Diffuso, Le Case Antiche in Veruchhio, Italy""Back patio at Il Casale della'Arte in Verucchio, Italy"

We enjoyed the quiet nights with the windows open to warm breezes, and sunny mornings with the birds singing. Each morning, Silvia  and her staff prepared a wonderful buffet breakfast with fresh pastries, hot egg and meat dishes, fruit and other choices ready for us to enjoy on the front patio or back terrace.

"Breakfast buffet at Le Case Antiche, Il Casale della'Arte in Verucchio""Fresh fruit at breakfast buffet at Il Casale dell"arte, Le Case Antiche, Verucchio, Italy"

Silvia also showed us her two alberghi diffusi accommodations a short walk up one of the stone streets from Piazza Malatesta — “The House Behind the Theatre” and “The House on San Francesco Street”. Both were as peaceful at this time of night as our “home” in the valley, but with a slightly different ambiance — that of living among the locals. One of these had been her grandmother’s house. Although in the ancient surroundings of Verucchio in centuries-old buildings, the apartments didn’t lack any modern comforts. They had upscale décor and were filled with character. I particularly liked the way the old thick (more than a foot) walls and unusual wood ceilings had been skillfully restored and the updated décor blended perfectly

"Bedroom at La Casa dietro Al Teatro, Verucchio""Living and dining area at La Casa dietro Al Teatro, an albergo diffuso in Verucchio, Italy"

New friends and local flavors

Another blogger, Susie White, also joined us in Verucchio. Together we enjoyed a hearty lunch at Ristorante La Rocca, next to the fortress at the top of the rock.

"View of Rimini and the Adriatic Sea from La Rocca, Verucchio"

View of Rimini and the Adriatic Sea from La Rocca

DSC01408DSC01409

"Infuso di Margherita at Ristorante La Rocca, Veruchhio"The regional food specialties, such as the grilled vegetables above, linguine, and a large, juicy T-Bone steak, were excellent as were the views of the countryside with Rimini and the Adriatic Sea in the distance. That’s Susie’s dog in the photo above, apparently a bit camera shy. La Rocca is a family restaurant that began with the owners’ grandmother, Margherita, for whom they named their own special liquer, Infuso di Margherita (something like limoncello). Today, her grandchildren, Michele and Marta, run the restaurant, carrying on the traditions begun over 50 years ago.

After lunch and a tour of the fortress (which we’ll write about soon), we made our way down the steep, winding cobblestone streets to the ancient Verucchio neighborhood, Borgo Sant’Antonio, for La Festa del Borgo di Sant’Antonio (Feast of the village of St. Anthony). The event was also a fundraiser for continuing restorations of the old church, Chiesa del Borgo Sant’Antonio.

Walking with our guide, Stefano to Borgo Sant'Antonio

Walking with our guide, Stefano to Borgo Sant’Antonio

"Walk down Via Borgo Sant'Antonio, Verucchio"

Via Borgo Sant’Antonio

As we carefully made our way down the hill and got nearer Borgo Sant’Antonio, we could hear the inviting music and laughter of the festival.

"Villagers gathered for a church fundraiser"

Villagers gathered for the festival

Verucchio’s town band, comprised of residents, was entertaining festival-goers with traditional music as well as contemporary popular tunes. It was only for special occasions that they performed, and we were told that decision was made because we would be attending.

"Band playing at festival and church fundraiser in Verucchio, Italy"

Band playing at festival

Apparently, the townspeople had known that international bloggers were coming to Verucchio and they were excited about our visit — almost as much as we were! We felt so honored that the people of Verucchio had been expecting us and treated us like a part of the festivities.

"Arts and crafts booth at Fest al Lavetorio Borgo S. Antonio, Verucchio 2013"

Lovely arts and crafts for sale

The woman in the photo above at her crafts booth presented us with commemorative aprons, while another encouraged us to partake of the diverse pastries and foods contributed by townspeople to the festival.

"Baked goods at Festa al Lavetoio Borgo S. Antonio. Verucchio"

Baked goods at Festa al Lavetoio Borgo Sant’Antonio

In particular, I remember Maria Rosa of il Bello e il Buono da Verucchio, a local entrepreneur with a very engaging personality and warm smile. While we sampled her delicious offerings, she talked about the olive oil, honey, jams and other products that she makes from local produce and sells in the village. But the conversation quickly flowed to talk about Verucchio and her husband, who was playing the trumpet in the band.

"Maria Rosa of il Bello e il Buono, Verucchio, Italy"

Maria Rosa of il Bello e il Buono

We were somehow swept with a group into an open house in a private home where pasta and salads were being made. Two of our group, Alessandra and Susie, spoke Italian so we were brought into various conversations throughout the house.

"Mingling with the locals in a home in Verucchio"

Mingling with the locals in a Verucchio home

On this first evening in Verucchio, Silvia and her family accompanied us to a venue in the city center, Tipicità Italiane, for “apericena” — food, wine, music and conversation. In her shop, owner Mariapia Bartolucci, professional sommelier, offers varied selections of specialty food products and wine. In the evenings, guests can enjoy music in the room adjacent to the shop as Mariapia pairs wines with delectable pastas, cheese, and rice dishes. On this evening, a jazz trio provided live music while we enjoyed the wine and foods that Mariapia had chosen for us.

"Jazz trio at Tipicità Italiane in Verucchio, Italy"

Jazz trio at Tipicità Italiane

"Tipicita Italiane on Piazza Maltesta in Verucchio, Italy""Bread and specialty spread at Tipicità Italiane, Verucchio"

Although we had met only briefly at her shop, when we ran into Mariapia on the street on our last day in Verucchio, it was the most natural thing in the world to give her a hug as we said “Arrivederci”.

"Bloggers with Al Mastin Vecchio owner in Verucchio, Italy"

Bloggers with Silvia Santolini and Al Mastin Vecchio manager

On our last evening in Verucchio, four days later, with a gorgeous view as our backdrop, we were served regional cheese, meat, vegetable and pasta dishes on the patio at Al Mastin Vecchio. We also got to explore the restaurant’s cave wine cellar dating back to 1300. The restaurant is located on the west side of the ancient city walls, which can still be walked in many places.

"Cave wine cellar at Al Mastin Veccio, Verucchio""Cheese plate at al Mastin Vecchio, Verucchio, Italy"

Silvia introduced us to the mayor of Verucchio who was walking by the restaurant. It was another meeting-the-locals opportunity that you don’t often find when traveling.

"Mayor of Verucchio, Italy, Giorgio Pruccoli"

Mayor of Verucchio

Al Mastin Vecchio was also a perfect spot to catch the sunset over the Apennines while we enjoyed our food and wine.

"Sunset over the Apennines from Verucchio"

Sunset over the Apennines from Verucchio

Then a walk through the piazza and our last night in Emilia-Romagna was coming to a close.

"Piazza Malatesta, Verucchio, Italy at night"

Piazza Malatesta at night

Leaving home

Now that I’ve had a chance to learn a bit first-hand, I can recommend Verucchio (and Le Case Antiche) for local activities and as great base location — a place to call home when touring through areas of Emilia-Romagna. It was perfectly located for our day trips to San Leo, Sant’Agata Feltria, Santarcangelo, and Ferrara for other cultural experiences and the hospitality of Emilia-Romagna. When we returned to Le Case Antiche each evening, we felt as though we were coming home, and then enjoyed a glass of wine on the front patio looking up at the lights of Verucchio and the Malatesta Castle.

"Malatesta Fortress from Il Casale della'Arte at night in Verucchio"

Malatesta Fortress from Il Casale della’Arte

Verucchio is a town with interesting history, excellent dining options, artisan shops and views to remember. I also remember a lot of smiling faces, kind words, hearty handshakes, and hugs.

On the morning we left, we found out it was Silvia’s birthday. It seemed just right to sing our unique birthday song reserved for close family and friends. When we left, we were leaving new friends who I’m confident we will find a way to see again.

"Raising glasses for a toast with Silvia Santolini, owner of Le Case Antiche in Verucchio, Italy"

Toasting with Silvia Santolini

We plan to follow this introduction with more posts about our trip, including accommodations, activities, meals, and the people we met in Emilia-Romagna. Stay tuned!

Disclosure: Thanks to Le Case Antiche, Alessandra of 21Grammy and Associazione Internazionale Alberghi Diffusi for proving our accommodations in Verucchio and activities.

  61 Responses to “At Home in Verucchio”

  1. Beautiful place…

  2. What a fantastic journey and cultural immersion this visit must have been! It certainly seems that you lived like a local while your were there and nothing beats an experience like that! And the scenery…absolutely breathtaking!!!

    • Totally unique experience. I’ll be posting more about some of the things we did while we were there and in Portico di Romagna.

  3. I was going to comment on several things you mentioned – the fact that Verucchio isn’t touristy, the food, the views, your digs. I was going to ask about your Italian now but all that got pushed to the back of my mind when I saw your photo with you and the mayor. You met the mayor! How exciting, Cathy! Some travel bloggers have all the luck! Fantastic!!

    • Oh, don’t ask about my Italian! I’m determined to improve my language skills before I return (which will hopefully be soon).

  4. Another beautiful history! Marcia, if you want to be as lucky as Cathy, let me know. It was a pleasure to stay with Cathy and Teresa and Mr TWS, but let’s give the chance to others, too:))

  5. Verucchio can’t actually be that far from where we live, perhaps 2 hours at most. We haven’t heard of it before, so we’ll have to check it out one of these weekends!

    • Jennifer, I’m confident that you would love it. Check out Le Case Antiche for spending the night.

  6. Beautiful reportage! thank you for your visit! I am happy that you liked our local products. See you soon!
    Mariapia di Tipicità Italiane a Verucchio

  7. […] It felt a little sad when it was time to leave our “family” in Portico, but Marisa assured us that we would be finding friendly people everywhere we went in Emilia-Romagna. Marisa was right! Next stop — Verucchio. […]

  8. Definitely a place to feel at home… I would.
    The sites, the sounds and that fruit tray!!! 😀

  9. Never heard of Verucchio before. But I’ll definitely stop by next time I’m in the area.

    • Yes, do stop by there. It’ll be a great place to add to your “Italian Notes”!

    • Hi Mette, you would like it. I was there during the Touring Club Orange Flag Days, where I met Il Bello e Il Buono but also a gorgeous company of people dressing medieval clothes and weapons. You can find a post about that day on my blog:) Enjoy!

  10. Looks like a wonderful trip. People make a place—everyone sounds so warm and welcoming.

  11. Wonderful places and lovely people! As for the food and wine… I could almost taste all that goodness while reading your post. I must see Verucchio sometime soon!

    • I had a hard time selecting just a few photos of all that I have. So I’ll have to post more later. Stay tuned. 🙂

  12. Oh, I just loved this, Catherine. Your photos are beautiful, and the article itself is very personable and informative. Verucchio is clearly a warm and friendly town with much to offer….a must-do! Thank you.

    • Hope you get there on your next trip to Italy. It’s definitely the kind of town you would like, Susan.

  13. What a fabulous spot and what a pretty room you had. I’d love to check out that area – and the wine.

    • The wine in Emilia-Romagna is wonderful. Sangiovese is their most well-known wine. I’ve got more coming up here and on Facebook about the wines.

  14. As always, a great place presented in a marvelous way: wonderful photos, great story and many travel recommendations! I loved to read it and share it!

  15. Oh my goodness, this town sounds absolutely heavenly. You’ve painted such a lovely picture with your words and the photos are wonderful, too. I really like how they were so welcoming to your group and treated you as special guests.

    • They were all so proud to talk about their town and show us around. Big community spirit there that you don’t see everywhere, even in small towns.

    • Hi Michele, I live here, I’m a local blogger and really we met special people, it was a surprise even for me:) But Silvia is a lovely lady, she was immediately ready to go when I went to her proposing this project of Romagna Diffusa, so she was really great:) Enjoy!

  16. I want to visit now. What a beautiful town, area and lodging. I love the hospitality and the fact that it’s not touristy. What a wonderful experience for you and Mr. TWS to stay here. I wouldn’t want to leave with all that food and wine. Those surrounding areas with the rooftops are absolutely gorgeous.

    • So many scenic views from many of the place in Emilia-Romagna we visited, but Verucchio had unique vistas of both the mountains and the sea. Beautiful!

  17. Wow, such beautiful scenery and it looks like you had great people to share it with!

    • The Emilia-Romagna region was every bit as beautiful as I expected.The surprise was how wonderful people were.

  18. Lovely reportage, Cathy. Verucchio looks so pretty (and so does the mayor) and it sounds like you had a wonderful time. Can’t believe I haven’t heard of this town before despite having been in San Marino twice. Did you go to San Marino, by the way?

    • We actually didn’t have time to go to San Marino, since some of the less-traveled places were on the itinerary, but I would like to visit sometime. It was amazing just to have a view of it so close.

  19. It does indeed evoke thoughts of medieval villages but from the photographs and your adventure sounds like you felt right at home. Not sure what that says about you 😉 The party looks like fun!

  20. What a charming city. It sounds like you had a wonderful time exploring and hanging out with the other bloggers.

  21. Hi Cathy,

    Wow, that looks like so much fun, I love walking through these hilltop villages, and what great timing to visit when there’s a festival. It always makes the visit so much more of La Dolce Vita!

    I’m inviting you to come and link up with us for Travel Photo Mondays also for a photo carnival starting on Monday for the whole week!

  22. Wow, the view from the fortress is spectacular! I love charming villages like Verucchio and can see why you enjoyed it so much.

  23. There’s not a lot of posts that make me completely jealous – but this one did. Glad you enjoyed your stay!

  24. What a wonderful experience. Being swept into someones home – I like the sound of that 🙂

    • Hi Jan, that is exactly the philosophy of Alberghi Diffusi, which I immediately fell in love with and that is the main reason I created the project of Romagna Diffusa. Hope you will have the chance to visit the area where I live, I would be glad to be your local evangelist:)

  25. Looks like a relaxing place and a great experience!

  26. I have just been loving your Italy trip – looks like you’re becoming one of the locals!

  27. Looks like you had an amazing tour and lots of fun. I have never been to Verucchio but I definitely want to explore that area one day. I love those authentic little villages.

  28. I love that you met so many locals! It looks like a wonderful place, honestly, all that food, friendly people and the architecture is just grand!

  29. Gosh, now I really need to go on holiday. I love the look of the architecture, food, your accommodation (that looks stunning) but most of all, the life. I love the idea of you mucking in with the locals and the local wares and produce look very interesting. I do think meeting the locals takes a holiday from being great to being something even more memorable. Lovely post, thank you.

  30. I love medieval villages and what a view from your room! I’ve never heard of this place, but now I’m intrigued.

  31. You look right at home! Verucchio definitely suits you!

  32. […] our stay at Le Case Antiche in Verucchio, we took a day trip to Sant’Agata Feltria, which is widely known for its white truffle festival […]

  33. Great recommendations! Gorgeous locale, warm and welcoming community, wonderful meals and a fabulous festival! It looks like a perfect trip!

  34. It’s great to see that you had a chance to really be a part of the community and in such a fantastic event too.

    I’ve had the fortune of being at several such events with Franca’s family and they’re so full of community spirit that you can’t help but feel a part of it.

  35. […] a day in Emilia-Romagna! We started out from our temporary home in Verucchio for a tour of San Leo (more to come about that and Sweeney’s travel blogging iPhone incident) […]

  36. […] the car well after midnight, it was back to Verucchio for a good night’s rest at Le Case Antiche to prepare us for another full day of new sights, […]

  37. […] La versione originale di questo post è stata pubblicata su Traveling with Sweeney a questo indirizzo. […]

  38. […] was a whirlwind of a day trip to Ferrara, Italy from our base in Verucchio. We started out early for our 2-hour drive to Ferrara, 90 miles to the north (about 30 miles from […]

  39. […] I felt like part of the family at Al Vecchio Convento in Portico di Romagna and were also just as at home at Le Case Antiche in […]

  40. […] which we were fortunate to sample in many regional dishes. During our stay at Le Case Antiche in Verucchio, we took a day trip to Sant’Agata Feltria, which is widely known for its white truffle festival […]

 Leave a Reply

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>

(required)

(required)

CommentLuv badge